Les grandes entreprises de l’alimentation de masse font aujourd’hui face à des critiques, à une défiance croissante et à un tassement de leurs parts de marché. Si les dimensions politiques de l’assiette engagée des militants et de l’assiette caritative des pauvres et des aidés ont été pointées dans la littérature, celles de l’assiette ordinaire de la consommation de masse ont été peu abordées. Cet article dépeint l’évolution de la défiance, en France et aux États-Unis, depuis une cinquantaine d’années, et ses effets visibles dans les transformations de l’offre alimentaire, à travers le recyclage, par les industriels, des critiques à leur endroit. L’article donne à voir un processus qui conduit à une visibilité croissante des dimensions politiques de l’alimentation industrielle de masse – au sens de la multiplication des choix par lesquels l’alimentation connecte et insère les mangeurs dans un système social et technique. En effet, le recyclage de la critique conduit à une diversification des qualités : modes de production, origine et nature des matières premières. Cette diversification souligne indirectement l’opacité des marques historiques et de l’alimentation de masse. La contingence des choix qui guident leur production en devient plus apparente. Le rapport critique, voire conflictuel, à l’alimentation industrielle de masse devient ainsi moteur d’une politisation de l’alimentation ordinaire. Cette réintroduction du politique dans le marché témoigne de la dimension constructive de la défiance.
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Article scientifique
Articles
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La politisation de l’alimentation ordinaire par le marché
23 novembre 2021, par Mathilde COUDRAY -
Improving lifestyles sustainability through community gardening : results and lessons learnt from the JArDinS quasi-experimental study.
10 novembre 2021, par Mathilde COUDRAYDespite an increasing number of studies highlighting the health benefits of community gardening, the literature is limited by cross-sectional designs. The “JArDinS” quasi-experimental study aimed to assess the impact of community garden participation on the adoption of more sustainable lifestyles among French adults.
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Does participating in community gardens promote sustainable lifestyles in urban settings ? Design and protocol of the JArDinS study.
10 novembre 2021, par Mathilde COUDRAYDespite growing evidence for the multiple health benefits of community gardening, longitudinal studies based on quantitative data are needed. Here we describe the protocol of JArDinS, a quasi-experimental study, aimed at assessing the impact of community garden participation (a natural experiment) in the adoption of more sustainable lifestyles.
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Improving the effectiveness of nutritional information policies : assessment of unconscious pleasure mechanisms involved in food-choice decisions
3 novembre 2021, par Mathilde COUDRAYThe rise in obesity in many countries has led to the emergence of nutritional information policies that aim to change people’s diets. Changing an individual’s diet is an ambitious goal, since numerous factors influence a person’s food-choice decisions, many of which are made unconsciously. These frequently subconscious processes should not be underestimated in food-choice behavior, as they play a major role in food diet composition. In this review, research in cognitive experimental psychology and neuroscience provides the basis for a critical analysis of the role of pleasure in eating behaviors. An assessment of the main characteristics of nutritional policies is provided, followed by recent findings showing that food choices are guided primarily by automatic emotional processes. Neuroimaging and behavioral studies, which provide new insights into the relationships between emotions and food both in lean persons and in persons with eating disorders, are reported as well. Lastly, the argument is presented that future nutritional policies can be more effective if they associate healthy food with eating pleasure.
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Food swamps predict obesity rates better than food deserts in the United States
3 novembre 2021, par Mathilde COUDRAYThis paper investigates the effect of food environments, characterized as food swamps, on adult obesity rates. Food swamps have been described as areas with a high-density of establishments selling high-calorie fast food and junk food, relative to healthier food options. This study examines multiple ways of categorizing food environments as food swamps and food deserts, including alternate versions of the Retail Food Environment Index. We merged food outlet, sociodemographic and obesity data from the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) Food Environment Atlas, the American Community Survey, and a commercial street reference dataset. We employed an instrumental variables (IV) strategy to correct for the endogeneity of food environments (i.e., that individuals self-select into neighborhoods and may consider food availability in their decision). Our results suggest that the presence of a food swamp is a stronger predictor of obesity rates than the absence of full-service grocery stores. We found, even after controlling for food desert effects, food swamps have a positive, statistically significant effect on adult obesity rates. All three food swamp measures indicated the same positive association, but reflected different magnitudes of the food swamp effect on rates of adult obesity (p values ranged from 0.00 to 0.16). Our adjustment for reverse causality, using an IV approach, revealed a stronger effect of food swamps than would have been obtained by naïve ordinary least squares (OLS) estimates. The food swamp effect was stronger in counties with greater income inequality (p < 0.05) and where residents are less mobile (p < 0.01). Based on these findings, local government policies such as zoning laws simultaneously restricting access to unhealthy food outlets and incentivizing healthy food retailers to locate in underserved neighborhoods warrant consideration as strategies to increase health equity.